i got up at 530 this morning to hit it with simon at far rockaway. simonsimonsimon. hahaha mad props to simon for being a gnarly coach and singing lion king with me in the waves. jesus clouds. bird man dance. simon kinda sliced my arm open with his fins but it's all good, i'm hard core. bringing it back. bloooooody muuuuurder
we went to 36 beach cause b67 doesnt have a stop anymore. i went to this beach one time before w fil (like, my second time out ever, and it was raining and cold as shit and i didnt have a wetsuit or a leash and i was hungover as shit and i basically got creamed the whole time) haha it was still freakin great.
today i think i stood up like 9 or 10 times. for real! there's this window of time (a very tiny window) where you have to like decide to stand your ass up, if you do it too early you miss the wave. too late: you're dunxzo. mike and simon say i need to pick my head up too cobra style. GRIM RIPPPPERSSSS
so tonight im raging some party but i need to go home and sleep first. mad tiiiiired. simon is a good coach. why the hell do i have the coolest friends in the world? really. i mean, what did i do that i get to hang out with the most wonderful beautiful friends in the whole world. so lucky.
la la la
feelin mad gay
love being gay
i am gay for surfffiiiinnnnnng
totally in love
who cares about anything else
waves are gonna be shitty this weekend
that kinda blows
i ate a bunch of salad today and yesterday too. i love salad. love it.
here is a list of the things i love:
cigarettes (oh yeah baby, smokin mad butts)
making my bed
making salads, eating salads, all salads
when i catch the train just right